It doesn’t always have to be torture… apparently. By Noel Brady
When a few of the Raceface lads hit milestone birthdays, we decided the only sensible thing to do was head for Lombardy and pretend it was a “relaxed” week of bikepacking. Sunshine, scenery, and only the occasional meltdown. Noel Brady even said it wouldn’t be torture—so we should’ve known we were in trouble.
The idea kicked off in late August: a September/October trip sounded grand. First plan was Bergamo to Rome. Lovely route, except for the fact you’d land in Bergamo and fly home from Dublin via Rome—awkward, messy, and thirsty-man–unfriendly. So that died a quick death.
Marrey, as usual, whipped up a route around Lombardy. On paper: perfect. Look closer: mountains, sneaky off-road bits, and a few “you’ll be walking here, lads” sections. I did my own version, sent it back, he refined it, and we ended up exactly back where we started. So I popped over to his place and we sat down for a few hrs and tried to sort it out, this piece in, that piece out, find towns that would have accommodation, all those kind of things that the others dont care about beforehand but well able to criticize if its isn’t right—the Pisa out-and-back section stayed, Marrey wanted Florence, I wanted Parma, there was no way we could do both and be home in a week….So we came to a comprise sort of speak.
A week or so later I heard he wasn’t gong, that was the green light to do my own version anyway. Carte Blanche as they say…
Day 1 – Bergamo to Piacenza
Straight off the plane and into the bike-building circus. The “one-hour job” morphed into two, plus a full bonus lap of Bergamo for no good reason. Eventually we found the right trail and rolled into Piacenza in the dark—ragged but content. Great hotel, even better food.
Day 2 – Piacenza to Rapallo
Off to the coast over the Apennines. Blue skies, solid climbing, and a cracking 15 km descent. We got in early, had a beer, had a feed… then paid €5 for bike parking. We laughed. They didn’t.
Day 3 – Rapallo to Marina Massa
A gentle Mediterranean pootle for 20 km—then straight back into the hills. We declared it would be an easy day. We lied. Climbs, mechanicals, and a fair bit of slagging. Marina Massa delivered: early arrival, swim, class restaurant, and two nights of not moving. Bliss.
Day 4 – Pisa Out-and-Back
Flat, simple, coastal day. In theory. In reality: sand traps, gravel detours, and a tyre finally so dodgy we staged an intervention. Pisa at lunch, photos acquired, bellies filled. The return trip was smoother once the new rubber was purchased.
Day 5 – Marina Massa to Varano de’ Melegari
Back across the Apennines onto the Via Francigena. This was the big one—long, steep, rude, and brilliant. The kind of day that makes you wonder why you do this… then the hotel food reminds you.
Day 6 – Varano de’ Melegari to Cremona
Mercifully flat 80 km. Cremona is a gem—Stradivarius country. The museum is unreal, and Hotel Duomo sits right in the thick of it. Perfect for strolling, eating, and generally pretending you’re cultured.
Day 7 – Cremona to Bergamo
Final leg. A few mechanicals and one mysteriously “lost” shoe (ask Dammo). Rolled in by 2 p.m., packed the bikes, and hit the old town for beers and a cracking final feed.
Summary
We are so lucky to have Ireland West airport Knock only 40mins from our doorstep and to be able to fly for 2.5hrs do a spin like this in Italy and fly home to Knock all inside 7 days is just pure bliss.
Route synopsis: 750 km pedalling, 6,600 metres of climbing, 30hrs of moving time, quiet lanes, random gravel, mountains sneaking up on you, and the usual Raceface comedy. A week of light-hearted suffering, birthday celebrations, and proper adventure—with just enough chaos to keep it interesting.
Life is for living, so dont sweat the small stuff.
